Trailing Off....: Three of a Gazillion Seaside Towns of Puglia

that band of blue in the background is the sea

I hate to admit it, but one really should have a car to visit the seaside in Puglia. Especially in winter (low season) when there is virtually no public transport to get anywhere. So my dreams of long walks on cliffs and beaches never did happen. But how whiny is that? Of course, I still did see the sea and enjoyed walking in some quaint little towns and devouring local food and wine. And really, what more could a girl ask for?

the sea: so close yet so far

Ostuni isn’t technically by the sea though you can see the blue waters in the distance and it’s only a few kilometres from a national park on the coast. However, the day we came here was the only day on our trip that it rained. We drank Prosecco until it stopped and then explored the town, nicknamed “The White Town” (though it didn’t seem any whiter than the other towns we visited).

more of a light grey after the rain

The highlight of the day though was going to a nearby masseria (farm) to see how olive oil has been produced here since Roman times. We were given an individual tour showing the methods and then were allowed to sample a few varieties. To sample olive oil, put some on a spoon and warm it with your hands, then put it in your mouth and hold it for a moment before swallowing. Olive oil shouldn’t taste like olives. The kind I prefer has a peppery finish.

animals and men alike worked down here to mash the olives

Monopoli is a port city on the Adriatic with a castle, interesting churches, and many beaches (if you have a car to get to them). We spent a pleasant afternoon here strolling through the town and stuffing our faces. The walk from the train station to the beach is about 10 minutes and on the way, I could feel the vibe of the town. Small seaside towns seem to know that they are just a tad cooler than their inland peers. Buildings are more colourful (pinks and yellows and brightly coloured doors), signs for attractions stand ostentatiously, and everyone seems to have a healthy glow from knowing they can get to the beach at any damn time. Monopoli is a quaint little place and despite the mild weather, I think if I'd had a gelato in hand and some sunglasses, I would have felt "now I'm properly on holiday!"

Gallipoli is a small fishing town on the opposite side of the heel on the Ionian Sea. The old town is actually a small island connected by a bridge. It doesn’t take long to walk through the old town and depending on where you’re standing, you can see the sea on all sides. We had yet another sunny stroll and because the small osterias were closed (siesta time), had a fancy seafood lunch overlooking the sea. Apparently this city gets a bit like Florida in the summer with young tourists getting up to all sorts of alcohol-fuelled shenanigans.

I am definitely returning to Puglia just to jump into the sea and travel further south on the heel to where the two seas meet. Did I mention there are a lot of language schools in this area? Two more years until Irish citizenship and permission to teach in the EU!