Trailing Off....: Eire

It’s winter. Darkness descends upon the city around 4:00 p.m. The wind is blowing so hard, parents have to hold on tightly to their children lest they be carried out to sea. The rain comes and goes without warning and nary an umbrella can withstand its ferocity.

Yet, the city is ablaze in the warm glow of festivity. Colourful lights adorn every major street and most businesses have at the very least, a wreath or makeshift tree. Crowds of shoppers, merrymakers, and students walk forward, heads bent into the wind, laughing in the face of winter.

The good people of Dublin will not be held captive in their homes by the gloom of December. They venture out in search of warmth, light, and a bit of craic. And the place that has loads of all three is the pub.

The 12 Pubs of Christmas crawl is a bit of an annoying tradition that sprung up in the last few years. A group of boisterous youngsters (usually students and/or tourists) or work colleagues don their gaudiest Christmas sweater and head out to drink themselves stupid on 12 full pints in 12 different pubs. As you can imagine, a drunk obnoxious group decked out in Santa costumes can be a buzzkill for the nice couple trying to have a quiet post-cinema pint. Some pubs have banned these groups while others embrace the extra income. It has become such a staple of the season that suggested routes can be found on many visitor websites.

So why would a middle-aged group of two decide to partake in these shenanigans? See paragraph 1 and 3!

We made our own route and some rules. The pubs must serve good craft beer, there had to be a long walk between pubs, we could only drink a small glass at each, and we had to have some snacks and water. Unfortunately, we forgot about the last and most important rule of hydration as my head could attest to the following day.

1. Alfie Byrne’s. A Galway Bay pub (there are at least 4 in the city, including my favourite , the Black Sheep). Beer: Maybe Next Monday, a citrus beer reminiscent of a Belgian Gueze.

2. Anseo. Grungy bar where I’d expect to see punk music loving, anti-establishment, formerly rebellious teens. We were there early so saw a group of middle-aged ladies on a trip from North England. Beer: Scraggy Bay IPA. Meh.

3. Against the Grain. Another Galway Bay pub, but a bit grimier and smellier than the others. Beer: Barcelona Padrino Porter. Chocolate and vanilla flavours. Yum!

4. P-Macs. In Dublin 2 where the rich and beautiful people of the city like to hang out. Not a Christmas jumper to be seen in this place. Beer: Lindeman Kriek. One of my all time faves.

5. Crowbar. In Temple Bar. It’s dark, moody, and full of oversized sofas and armchairs. During the day they have an amazing vegetarian menu. Beer: Scottish bottled beer called Birds and Bees. Kinda lager-y.

6. The Meeting House. Behind Pinxto’s in Temple Bar. It’s a knock off of Pinxto’s (which is a Spanish tapas restaurant); you can choose 9 for 54 euro though most people just seemed to be drinking. Beer: They didn’t have any good beer, so in a moment of inspiration, S ordered us a Porn Star martini (some kind of flavoured vodka and passion fruit juice) and a Mai Tai, which tasted just a like a mojito. Not very strong which was a good thing.

7. Porterhouse. 4 storey place in Temple Bar. They have their own line of craft beers that are quite good. It’s a touristy place so always some live Irish music that wasn’t too loud on this occasion. Beer: 80 Signal Stout. Just the right balance of bitter and sweet. Yum.

8. Sine (pronounced shinnay). A live music venue for hipsters who want something less quaint than the usual hipster pub. Beer: Duvel (Belgian beer)

9. The Boar’s Head. A cosy, local old man’s pub on Capel Street. Good place to sit by a fire and watch a match. Some guy grabbed my ass as I left, which hasn’t been my usual experience there. Beer: Guinness, the original craft beer.

10. Panti Bar. Gay pub where you’ll meet people of all ages many of whom like to strike up a conversation. I’ve had more chats with strangers at this pub than any other. Beer: They have their own craft beer called, Panti Bar beer.

11. The Black Sheep. My second home. Beer: O Brother-Joe Coffee.

12. The Bier House. Our other local. A real cosy place with a fireplace, nice chairs next to windows for people-watching. The only pub I’ve ever seen that has beef jerky as a bar snack. Beer: Rascal’s Ginger Port. Imagine Ginger Ale + a dark bitter port. My favourite beer at the moment.

The night finished with a bag of chips and watching a little stand-up comedy on youtube and long, long blissful sleep. I think 12 pubs was too much for this old lady, but I really enjoyed the variety and having a long, invigorating walk in the wind in between the glasses.

Murray Park-30+ minutes by bus

The past summer in Ireland gave everyone an affinity for global warming. Blue skies and the type of temperatures a girl from the Midwest dreams of: never above 80 and never below 60. There were certainly a number of Irish who had fits of distress over their perceived melting, but for me it was perfect. However, as I made the long trek through the city to my school, I often lamented my distance from the sea or any place green to enjoy the long summer days. I began to long for nearby parks and streets free of vomit and dog poo. I wanted spontaneous picnics and beach walks that didn’t involve an hour of transport on the city bus. I began to hate living in the city.

This morning, I decided I needed a new perspective on the area I call home, so at sunrise, I bundled up (idyllic summer temperatures are gone) and took my camera to capture all that is within 5-10 minutes walking distance. The sky was a cloudless bright blue and the sun was doing its best to warm the streets. Usually I’m in a rush to get from point A to point B and especially in a rush when Point B is my comfy apartment and the open arms of the internet. But today I slowly wandered in and out of lanes, along the tram tracks, and through the empty shopping streets. I gave up half way, partly because I was freezing and hungry, but mostly because I felt satisfied that the tiny apartment on Ryder’s Row is the centre of the best little microcosmic universe.

Shopping streets (3 minutes)

Henry Street before the shops open

Henry/Mary/Talbot Street is always packed during business hours. In addition to the usual shopping, you can buy fresh strawberries and boy band posters from people hawking various wares in the street. You’re also likely to see buskers, at least one homeless guy with a pet rabbit, and people who paint themselves and act like statues. One of the shopping centres is the ILAC centre and is the oldest in Dublin. You can tell the target market by the abundance of discount shoe shops and the Pound Store, not to mention the few fast food places. It’s also home of Dublin’s central library.

Moore Street (5 minutes)

This is off of Henry Street and has several stalls selling fresh vegetables and fruit as well as a couple of butcher shops. There are also people shouting that they can sell you cigarettes and tobacco and there’s usually one or two shady guys trying to sell SIM cards. If you need hair extensions or habanero peppers or crave fresh perogis (Polish dumplings), this is the place to go. There’s also a sign on the street showing the bullet holes from when there was a shoot out during the Easter Uprising. I really love this street but some people say that the quality and character of the place have suffered in the last few decades.

Pubs (2 to 10 minutes)

Irish breakfast and Guinness at 8 a.m.? yes!

Someday I'll do a post about ALL the pubs that are in 5 minutes walking distance from my apartment. But today, I’ll highlight Slattery’s which has the double distinction of being one of the only pubs open in the morning and one of Anthony Bourdain’s stops when he visited Dublin for his TV program. There’s the Black Sheep for when we’re in the mood to see hipsters and drink craft beer (not to mention eat the best chunky chips in the world) or the place where you have to ring a buzzer to get in and where you may or may not be allowed in depending on the mood of the owner.

The Wholesale Fruit and Veg Market (5 minutes)

In the mornings, I run by the men who work at this huge market with the elegant stone façade. They’re schlepping the produce which has been brought by farmers or other trucks so that it can be taken to various parts of the city. The men work at night which is why Slattery’s is open so early in the morning. As of now it’s a wholesale market with a couple of stalls for shoppers, but there are plans to redevelop the area so that there will be more stalls and cafes/restaurants. With all the cobblestoned streets leading to and from this old building, I always feel transported back in time when I go by.

inside is a giant warehouse of produce

Cinemas (1 minute or 10 minutes)

my building on the left and Cineworld on the right

My building is attached to Cineworld so it takes no time to go downstairs, into the cinema, and into a comfy seat. The downside is that Cineworld is the most expensive cinema around (regular admission is about 11 euros). Luckily, about 10 minutes away is the Lighthouse Cinema that is not only cheaper, but also allows you to bring beer into the cinema. Double win!!

inside the hip and reasonable Lighthouse Cinema

Recycled Bicycle Shop (30 seconds)

before

I’m not into bikes, but these guys have made this little corner of the hood much more colourful, not to mention offering affordable bikes.

after

Asian Restaurants (5 or 10 minutes)

10 minutes away is the “Chinatown” of Dublin and home to my favourite noodles that are EXACTLY like what I used to get in Nanjing (with bits of pork and pickled mustard greens). You’ll also find an interesting mix of old man pubs and Korean restaurants. And discounted crap from the US (that was likely made in China, so full circle).

But one minute away is Capel Street, which has Korean BBQ, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Filipino restaurants. They’re all great and I especially love a big bowl of Pho and a newspaper on a blustery Friday afternoon. For more ethnic diversity, the block over has Hungarian and Mexican fare.

Charity Shops (3-5 minutes)

On Capel Street there a few second hand shops run by a variety of charities. In the US we call them “thrift shops”. Since I moved to Dublin, I’ve bought the majority of my clothes at these shops. I find interesting, quality stuff without having the overwhelming number of choices at the mall. Everything is at a low price (average 5 euros for a top) and the money goes to charity. What's not to like?

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Asian Markets (5 minutes)

There are actually about five within five minutes walking distance but the one I like and use the most is this one. They have mostly central Asian products but I can usually get the things I need for Thai and Vietnamese dishes. The men who run the place are all incredibly friendly.

all the plantains, coconut milk, spices, lentils, and pickled stuff you could ever want!

Scary Looking Georgian Area (5 minutes)

Stephen told me this area has been filmed for a lot of movie scenes. It definitely has a weird haunted vibe. It’s called The King’s Inn and is some kind of law school.

did I enter a time warp?

Jameson Distillery (10 minutes)

I’ve never been here but walk through it on the way to the Lighthouse cinema. Someday, I’ll take the tour and get my free shot.

Parnell Square (7 minutes)

This is a free art gallery located on the north side of Parnell Square called the Hugh Lane. The most interesting part of the gallery is that they transported Francis Bacon’s entire London studio and put it as is in the gallery. There are also free symphonies on Sunday’s afternoon. Next to the gallery is the Dublin Writer’s Museum. The Square also has the distinction of being where Stephen works. Yes, that’s right. He only has a 5 minute walk to work.

The Gate Theatre is on the east side of Parnell Square and across from Stephen’s school. Last month I saw Arthur Miller’s “The Price” here and loved being able to get there in just a few minutes.

S's school

Where all the Buses Go (8 minutes)

Every morning I get to see The Spire, aka “The Stiletto in the Ghetto” as I wait for my bus to go to school.

O'Connell Street

Sex Shop

I just discovered this little gem today. And only 3 minutes away!!

This is only a smattering of places I can get to from my little abode in Dublin 1. In ten minutes, I can get to the south side of the Liffey where there's the touristy Temple Bar area, medieval Dublin, and a whole host of cultural and historical venues. But for this weekend, I wanted to keep it real on the north side. There's truly no place like home.