Trailing Off....: Helly Delhi

On a main road in Old Delhi

It was late at night when we arrived at the train station of our final destination, which happens to be the second largest city in the world. It seemed at least half the residents wanted us to choose their taxi or rickshaw. An overpriced 5 minutes later we were dropped at a surprisingly nice and cheap place on a street quite reminiscent of Khao San Road in Bangkok, minus the pubs. It was a good bit of planning on S's part to make sure we had a sanctuary to escape to at the end of the day, because as it turned out, I think Delhi tried to kill me.

The Grand Godwin Hotel

When I close my eyes to take me back to that week, I just remember the sensory ambush from all sides. The sun beating down on my head and back, the dirt, dust, and rubbish swirling around my feet, the saris, tuk-tuks, bicycles, brushing past my arms. The scent of spicy exhaust, the ceaseless honking of horns. And all of these things with their visuals too. It was amazing, terrifying, and maddening in equal measures.

toy market

typical street

But of course, it was fascinating. And despite the horrible Delhi Belly I suffered, we still managed to see and experience some of the Top Ten Highlights.

Qutub Minar

not only was it a historically interesting place, but very peaceful as well

Sometimes I think I can't bear to see one more temple, one more shrine, one more UNESCO protected site of ruins. The subway journey was a long one, it was a scorcher of a day, and the entrance fee was a bit steep, but it was definitely worth it. The complex was started in the 12th century A.D. by the ruling sultans of the time and includes the tallest tower in India, a mosque, and other structures. The stone carving and some of the pillars and archways are just beautiful. I've been in a lot these kinds of places, but this one spoke to me. Or maybe I was just delirious.

not sure why I have the angry face

so many lovely colours and textures

Old Delhi

inside a palace within the Red Fort

It was the walled capital of the Mughals for ages, so it's got a lot of stuff including a huge fort, a magnificent mosque, a labyrinth of alleys that are various markets, the largest spice market in Asia, and a lot of historical mansions.

Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. This is just one tiny corner I could see from the back of a rickshaw

The places we wanted to see were only one or two stops from the metro station near our hotel. The first day we ventured out was a true monsoon day. The rain came down so hard that our little 1 euro umbrellas were absolutely useless. We were drenched. This was the day I became ill and rather than blame it on the most amazing food I've ever had, I choose to believe that it was because some malevolent bacteria was in the rain and found its way to my organs via seeping into my skin.

on a bicycle rickshaw after the rain

The Spice Market

It's a madhouse but the aromas and the colours are like porn for the home cook.

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bursting at the seams with dried chillies!

Now that it's been a rather long time since the trip (5 months, egads!!!) my memory has taken away the feelings of despair and frustration. My body is completely back to normal and whatever vitriol I had for the place has abated to a "that was hellish but a great experience" anecdote. Something I've noticed since starting this blog 3 years ago is how much I can retro-enjoy the places I've been to. It's like being there all over again but without having to scrub my feet at the end of the day.