Saturday, April 13, 2013

Songkran Festival: Splashing in the New Year



Some countries have day or week long fireworks displays while others have long and loud alcohol fueled dance parties. Some focus on family and community while others focus on spirituality and renewal of the self. But nowhere other than SE Asia does the New Year involve donning your gaudiest floral attire, stocking up on plastic guns and taking to the streets to shoot and douse strangers with water. 
What could be more fun than flowered shirts, bubbles, water guns?

April 13-15 is the traditional Thai New Year, though January 1 is the official day in keeping with the international calendars. The days are national holidays and many businesses are closed and people often travel to see families. Though it may seem like days of frivolity created to alleviate the madness created by the summer heat--everyday is nearly 40/100 degrees--there are meaningful roots to be found in the splashing.

Stephen in battle mode
 
As far as I can tell from my brief internet research, in the past the day was used to clean Buddha statues. The statues were sometimes brought around the towns and villages and people would splash water on them and the collected "blessed" water from the statue cleaning was poured on elders and family to symbolize washing away the past and giving blessings for the next year.

In addition to the buckets of ice cold water, people will also stop to rub some talc powder mixed with water onto your face. This is symbolic of the chalk used by monks to mark their blessings when you go to the temple to make merit.
Many add color to their blessing goop

Now, anyone who steps outside is fair game for throwing water on, whether on a motorcycle, tuk-tuk or just walking around. Some people, foreigners included, will travel or stay home to avoid the "fun". We wanted the full experience, so joined the local Hash Harriers-- a group of ex-pats who torture themselves each week with long afternoon runs followed by copious amounts of beer and food. After maintaining our post at the Coffee Love Bar and shooting countless children, teens, and elders, we set off for a short walk around the town, engaging in water fights with everyone and occasionally stopping at the beer truck for a refreshment. Unfortunately, this was NOT a typical summer day. It was cool and rainy.
Taking it to the streets


Don't get me wrong. People still go to the temple to make merit and give alms to the monks. People pay respect to their families on this day and use it as a time to reflect on the past and make goals for the coming year. Some lament that the once very traditional day has evolved into just a day of play with the meaning taken out of the equation--not to mention some of the negative consequences related to drinking and getting splashed in the face while driving. However, what I experienced on this day was lovely community spirit. Regardless of age or class, everyone played together as equals, sharing their water with those whose guns were empty. Everyone seemed heartfelt in their "Happy New Years" and best of all, everyone got to shed the chains of adult responsibility and for a few blessed hours, be a kid again.
Everyone especially loved shooting the giant foreigner

Before my hair and eyes were matted with water and colored powder
 
The gun on the left only made it a few rounds
 
I wish I had dressed more fashionably like the teens
 
 
 
Mom and daughter squad
 
Many of the wimpier foreigners stayed "dry" inside the bar
 
guarding the powder for sale
 
Steve and  Mick talk strategy
 
older women and children are fair game
 
Bubble machine!!!
 
quick stop at the beer truck
 
 

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